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COA\PLETE 
INSTRUCTIONS 



ON THE, 



ART or 




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I Trench Dyeing 

AND 

Cleaning 



....AT nOAAE 



PRICE PIPTY CENTS 



BY 

A\ADAA\E n. DESHAYES 

Sacramento, Cal. 

TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH BY 
CHARLOTTE PAU 



Complete Instructions 



■ON- 



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BY 



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MADAME M. DESHAYES'^^^^^^^^^. 

TRANSLATED FROM THE FREtJCH -" , oav^ ' 

. . BY . . [ QQl 7 ^b^O , 

CHARLOTTE PAUV<p,, .^V^ ^ 

Copyright applied for. 



909- 



S'^ 



INTRODUCTION, 



This little book is written on behalf of persons having 
no distinct knowledge of the Art of Cleaning and Dye- 
ing, according to French methods. It contains, in form 
of simple language, complete instructions for dyeing and 
cleaning articles of apparel, etc., and by closely and 
carefully following the recipes contained herein any 
young girl, or mother of a family, can clean and dye her 
own clothes or those of the family at a very cheap rate. 
All the acids, dyeing woods, colors, etc., can be obtained 
at any good druggist's. Very often persons entirely or 
partially ignorant upon this subject throw the very soiled 
clothes away, or in trying to remove certain stains, ren- 
der them larger and more difficult to clean. It is sin- 
cerely hoped that many persons living in the country, or 
on large ranches situated at a great distance from a large 
city, will find this little book both useful and a source of 
economy. 

M. DESHAYES. 

August 7, 1896, 



INSTRUCTJONS FOR DYEING. 



Before dyeing any article of apparel it is absolutely nec- 
essary to get together every piece of the material and the 
foundation of the dress, or other article. Sew them to- 
gether with very strong, coarse thread, large stitches, of 
course, in order that when stirring the articles in the dye 
no one piece is allowed to remain stationer}^ as this 
would cause the dye to intensify more in one piece than 
another. 

Every article, whether clean or soiled, must be washed 
before dyeing, and put into the mordant whilst wet. 
Every portion of the material must be well brushed with 
hot, soapy water, which has had a little soda dissolved in 
it. Rinse once in warm water, then brush again and 
rinse in two or three waters. 

Woolen and silk materials must never be wrung out, 
but the water must be pressed out of them as well as 
possible, and they should be then hung up to dry. The 
dye should always be strained before the materials are 
placed in it to boil. 

When cotton is dyed with Bichromate of Potash as the 
mordant, the water does not need to be very warm. 

Melt 12 grains of Bichromate of Potash in 2}4 gallons 
of water and one glassful of Rust. At 15 degrees of 



COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



pressure put the materials in for half an hour, stirring 
them without ceasing. After the cotton materials have 
been soaked in the mordant half an hour, draw them out 
b}^ means of two uncolored sticks, and rinse several times 
before putting them into the dye. 

Note. — Though the terms ^'Teaspoonful, Dessert- 
spoonful and Tablespoonful" have been used to denote 
the correct measure, or thereabouts, of the acids and 
other chemicals used as the Mordant in Dyeing, it must 
be clearly understood that no silver spoons must be used, 
as the acids are liable to utterly damage such articles. 

Use Wooden Spoons, guessing as near as possible the 
measure indicated. 



RECIPE FOR MAKING THE RUST WHICH IS USED AS 
THE nORDANT FOR DYEING BLACK MATERIALS. 



SILK AND FEATHERS. 



Collect a number of old pieces of iron, put them into a 
little wooden pail with a small hole in the bottom; place 
this over another wooden pail or barrel, and pour a quan- 
tity of boiling vinegar over the iron, every piece of which 
must have been washed clean previous to having been 
placed in the pail. When the vinegar has dripped 
through pail No. i, allow it to cool, and repeat the same 
operation with the same vinegar for fifteen days in suc- 
cession. 

If preferred Pyrolignite of Iron can be obtained at the 
druggists. 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 



RECIPE FOR CLEANING THE HANDS FROfl DYE STAINS, 



Put a few drops of Sulphuric Acid in the water to re- 
move black stains and a little Ammonia for other colors. 



DRESSING FOR LIGHT COLORS. 



Soften a handful of grey glue and one leaf of gelatine 
in cold water. When it is softened pour some boiling 
water upon it until it is quite dissolved, then add as 
much cold water as you require to thoroughly soak the 
object requiring the finish, or dressing so-called. Be 
sure to strain the liquid through a cloth before using. 
Pass the material through the dressing, hang upon the 
hoops to dry and endeavor to prevent it falling in pleats. 
This dressing, is for the finishing of dyed or w^ashed arti- 
cles, whether of wool, or wool and cotton mixtures. 

For silks it is better to use Gelatine only. This is 
clearer. For black woolens, etc., the dark or brownish 
glue can be used ; but for all light shades of colors the 
grey is better. This gives them a new look after they 
have been dyed. 



COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



INDEX OF COLORS, 



Blue will dye Garnet, Brown, Navy or Black. 
Brown will dye Seal Brown, Dark Green or Black. 
Cardinal will dye Garnet, Seal Brown, Green or Black. 
Cherry will dye Garnet, Seal Brown, Green or Black, 
Drab will dye Garnet, Seal Brown, Navy or Black. 
Fawn Color will dye Garnet, Brown, Green, Navy or 
Black. 
Green will dye Brown, Plum, Navy or Black. 
Lavender will dye any color. 
Magenta will dye Navy, Brown or Black. 
Maroon will dye Brown or Black. 
Navy will dye Brown or Black. 
Orange will dye Brown, Green, Maroon or Black. 
Olive will dye Brown or Black. 
Plum will dye any dark color. 
Straw will dye any color. 
Scarlet will dye Brown, Garnet or Black. 
Tan will dye Brown, Maroon, Navy or Black. 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 7 



DYEING OF WOOLEN CiOODS. 



Plum Color, Reddish Black Garnet, 

Orange, Tan, Drab, 

Moss Green, Green, Bronze, 

Maroon or Chestnut, Seal Brown, Nut Brown, 

Yellow, Grey, Violet or Purple, 

lyight Pearl, Mauve or Iyav'nd'r,Orange, 

Scarlet, Reddish Brown, Magenta, 

Navy Blue, Sky Blue, French Blue. 



PLUM COLORS. 



FIRST METHOD. 



Water — Take suflScient water to thoroughly cover the 
material to be dyed. 

riordant— I teaspoonful of Salt of Tin; i oz. alum. 

Color — Add to the above a sufficient quantity of I^og- 
wood to color the object as desired, adding more lyOg- 
wood to obtain a darker shade. Boil one hour, then 
take out material and rinse in two waters (cold.) 
Pass through the dressing (page 5) and dry. 



COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



SECOND METHOD. 



Water — As in preceding method. 

riordant — A dessert-spoonful of Red Argel or Wine-stone, 
the same of Alum; i tablespoonful of Sulphuric 
Acid. 

Color — Add a little Blue and a little Orchil, a small 
quantity of Logwood and a little Bluestone. Rinse 
the article in three waters; pass it through the dress- 
ing, and dry. 



THIRD METHOD. 



Mordant — Same as for second method. 

Color — Carmine of Indigo or Sulphate of Indigo. A 
little more Archil than in second method. A small 
quantity of lyight Purple (Red Violet) ; Aniline 
Dye may be added if desired. Boil one hour; rinse, 
etc., as in second method. 



ORANGE. 



Prepare asf for Reddish-Black, only with less Cochineal. 
Water — Sufficient for the immersion required. 
riordant — y^ oz. Oxalic Acid, ){ oz. Salt of Tin, lo 

grams Tartaric Acid, and Red Argel. 
Color — Cochineal, very little ; Fustic, sufficient. Boil 

half an hour. 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 



GREEN 



FIRST METHOD. 



Water — Sufficient for immersion. 

riordant — i dessert- spoonful Red Argel, i oz. Alum, a 
little Sulphuric Acid. 

First Color— Indigo Blue (Carmine.) Add a little Tum- 
eric to produce a lighter or yellowish green. If pre- 
ferred Picric Acid can be used instead of Tumeric. 

Second Color — Yellow Wood, Indigo Blue (Carmine.) 
The second color requires very little acid, and none 
at all with Picric Acid. 



SECOND METHOD. 



Water — Sufficient for immersion. 

Mordant— Glober's Salts dissolved in Sulphuric Acid, or 

add a little piece of Bluestone to the water. 
Color — Tumeric and Carmine of Indigo. 

NoTB — It is better to boil the material twice : First, 
in the mordant for one hour, then in the color for thirty 
minutes. 

Another recipe is Nicholson Blue and Picric Acid, 
used with the same mordant. 



10 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



REDDISH BLACK. 



Mordant — Dissolve in ^ of a pint of water ^ oz. of Ox- 
alic Acid; i oz. of Salt of Tin; lo grains of Tar- 
taric Acid. One can produce the desired shade by 
adding to the above sufficient Cochineal in powder 
to produce a more reddish effect. Boil 30 minutes, 
rinse, pass through dressing and dry. 



YELLOW, 



FIRST METHOD. 



Water — Sufficient for immersion. 

Mordant — i dessert-spoonful Wine Stone or Red Argel; 
I dessert-spoonful Alum; i tablespoonful Sulphuric 
Acid. Add a little Tumeric, which has been previ- 
ously dissolved in a little tepid water. In order to 
obtain a prettier Yellow effect add a little Archil. 
Boil one hour, rinse in two waters, pass through 
dressing and dry. 



SECOND METHOD. 

Mordant — The same as for Reddish Black. 
Colors — Fustic, Yellow Wood. Add a little Cochineal 
and follow directions for first method. 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 11 



ALL SHADES OF GREY. 



FIRST METHOD. 



Water — Sufficient for immersion. 

Mordant — i dessert-spoonful Argel or Wine Stone; i oz. 

of Alum. 
Color — *I^ogwood, *Arcliil, Yellow Wood — a small quan- 
tity. 
NoTH. — Care must be taken to add the above ex- 
tracts in small quantities in order to obtain the shade de- 
sired. The larger the quantity used, the darker the 
effect obtained. 



SECOND METHOD. 



Mordant — As for first method. 

Color^ — Cochineal, Carmine of Indigo, Yellow Wood, 
Picric Acid. 



THIRD METHOD. 



Mordant — As for first and second methods. 

Color — Archil, Carmine of Indigo, Yellow Wood or Fus- 
tic. Or one can dye woolen material with Grey 
Aniline Dye mixed in water, in which a little Acetic 
Acid has been dissolved. 



12 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



VIOLET.— Two Immersions. 



FIRST IMMERSION. 



Water — Sufficient for immersion. 

riordant — One dessert-spoonful Red Argel, one oz. Alum, 

one teaspoonful Salt of Tin. For woolens boil one 

hour and then rinse in cold water. 



SECOND IMMERSION. 



Color — Logwood and Carmine of Indigo. Boil material 
again for thirty minutes, rinse, etc. 



LIGHT PURPLE.— Petunia. 



In order to obtain these tints, which are very varied, 
prepare as for Violet, with the exception of substituting 
Cochineal f'AmmonicalJ for part of the Logwood in pre- 
vious recipe. By adding more Indigo one produces 
Prune color. 



VIOLET.— Aniline Dye. 



Dissolve a quantity of Hoffman Violet in boiling water, 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 13 

then strain through a piece of cloth in order to remove 
any small particles of dye which might spot the articles 
to be dyed. For a woolen dress only a small quantity of 
Acetic Acid is required as a mordant. Boil one hour ; 
rinse, etc. 



NAVY BLUE. 



FIRST METHOD. 



Water — Sufficient for immersion, with a little Borax. 

Color — Nicholson Blue, Archil, in very small quantity. 
Boil thirty minutes; rinse in three waters. This 
renders the stuff Grey, and to produce the color, 
namely. Navy Blue, it is necessary to take a tub of 
hot water, put in it two tablespoonfuls of Sulphuric 
Acid and then immerse the article. The Blue will 
instantly appear. Rinse, pass through the dressing 
and dry. 



SECOND METHOD. 



Mordant — Dessert-spoonful Red Argel; i oz. Alum; 
small quantity Sulphuric Acid. 

Color— Blue de Paris, Sulphate of Indigo, a little Ani- 
line Violet. 



14 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



THIRD METHOD. 



riordant— I dessert-spoonful Red Argel; i oz.Alum 
Color — Blue de Paris, Logwood. 



SKY BLUE. 



Water — Sufficient for immersion. 
riordant — i dessert-spoonful Red Argel; i oz. Alum. 
Color — A small quantity of Carmine of Indigo. Boil 
one hour and rinse three times. 



FRENCH BLUE, 



Water —Sufficient for immersion. 

riordant — Prussiate Yellow of Potash, 3 grams; Sul- 
phuric Acid, I tablespoonful; Alum, 5 grams; Salt of 
Tin about the size of a green pea. Put the article 
to be dyed into the liquid when very hot, but not 
boiling, and allow it to come to a boil slowly. 
Rinse in two waters. Pass through dressing, dry 
and iron. 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 15 



GARNET, 



FIRST METHOD. 



Water=-=-Sufl&cient for immersion. 

Mordant— 2-oz. Red Argel or Winestone; Alum, a little 
piece; Sulphuric Acid, about 3 dessertspoonsful. 

Color^ — A sufficient quantity of Archil, according to in- 
tensity of shade desired. Boil one hour and 
rinse, etc. 



SECOND METHOD. 



Water — Sufficient for immersion. 

Mordant— Glober's Salts diluted in a little Sulphuric 

Acid (about 25 grams of Glober's Salts and a 

wine-glassful of acid. 



HAVANA, WOOD COLOR AND SIMILAR SHADES. 



Water — Sufficient for immersion. 

Mordant — Red Argel, about 3 tablespoonsful ; Alum, 

about the size of a Filbert nut. 
Color — For color, add Yellow- wood, Archil and Sulphate 

of Indigo, the two last in very small quantities. 



16 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



MOSS GREEN. 



Use the same Mordant for Havana, simply putting a 
a little more Sulphate of Indigo and Yellow-wood, 
but less Archil. In order to obtain the desired 
shade, it is wise to try the dye on a piece of sample 
cloth first. 



riAROON, BRONZE AND SEAL=BROWN 



Water — Sufficient for immersion. 

riordant-— Red Argel, 2-oz.; Alum, about the size of a 
Filbert nut. 

Color — Logwood or Sulphate of Indigo in small quanti- 
ties; Archil and Tumeric. The different shades of 
Maroon, Bronze and Seal-Brown are obtained ac- 
cording to the quantity of each of the three coloring 
matters U8ed. For Maroon, the red must naturally 
predominate; for Bronze, the blue and yellow; and 
for Seal-Brown it is necessary that the yellow should 
exceed the other two colors. For Seal-Brown, less 
coloring matter is required. Try dye on a piece of 
sample cloth and shade to taste. Boil thirty min- 
utes, rinse^ pass through dressing^ dry and iron, 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANJNG. 17 



FIRST METHOD FOR THE DYEING OF 
BLACK WOOLLENS. 



FIRST IMMERSION. 



Water — Two and a half gallons. 

Mordant — Blue Stone, 30 grams; Green Copperas, 30 
grams; R.ed Argel or Wine Stone, 90 grams. When 
the above mordant is well dissolved in the water, 
put in the article and allow it to boil for one hour^ 
constantly moving it b}^ means of a stick of plain, 
uncolored wood. At the end of an hour withdraw 
and shake gently in the air for a few minutes. This 
will prevent the material from fading quickly. At 
this point the goods are of a greenish grey, as the 
mordant has destroyed most of the original color. 
It is important to rinse the material through three 

clear c jld waters, and then immediately into the Black 

bath, which is sufficient water. 



SECOND IMMERSION. 



Place in a small cotton bag a quantity of Logwood and 
a little Aniline Black. If a jet black i$ desired add to 



18 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 

above a handful of Tumeric. If a blue black is desired 
add a piece of Bluestone about the size of a filbert nut. 
Tie the bag securely, allowing sufficient room for the 
Logwood, etc., to swell. 

All this should be prepared in another boiler, while 
the material is boiling in the mordant, as it is absolutely 
necessar}'- to put the material into the dye immediately. 




ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 19 



METHOD FOR DYEING MIXED GOODS. 



The woolen is first dyed by its own process, and then 
re-dyed in the following, in order to dye the cotton part. 



FIRST riETHOD (Two Immersions.) 



Sufl&cient cold water, in which dissolve a good handful 
of Sulphates of Iron. 

Allow the article to soak all night, then withdraw, 
rinse and then put into the Black bath, which should be 
previously prepared ; bring to a boiling point. It is not 
necessary to boil the material. Rinse until the super- 
flous dye disappears entirely. Pass through dressing 
and dry. 

If preferred use Logwood, or Extract of Logwood. 



SECOND HETHOD FOR THE DYEING OF BLACK 

WOOLEN GOODS. 



The preparations are somewhat the same as in the First 
Method, but other ingredients are employed: 
Water, 2j^ gallons. 



20 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 

Bichromate of Potash, i8 grams. 
Blue Stone, 15 grams. 
Sulphuric Acid, 8 grams. 

Allow material to boil in the above one hour. With- 
draw, rinse in two cold waters, and then place in second, 
or Black bath previously prepared with sufficient water 
and lyOgwood and Yellow Wood. Allow this to boil 
thirty minutes, 

NoTK — If the material has a grayish shade you will 
have to dye it again, putting more I^ogwood, Yellow 
Wood and a little Black Aniline dye. If, on the con- 
trary, it had a heavy reddish-black shade, simply rinse 
the goods through in a tub of warm water, in which 
about a spoonful of Muriatic Acid has been dissolved. 
Then rinse through two or three clear cold waters; pass 
through dressing, dry and iron, after rinsing in the three 
cold waters , 

Allow dye to boil half an hour, moving continually 
with a wooden stick. Withdraw and rinse through sev- 
eral waters, in order to remove the superfluous dye mat- 
ter, being careful to brush the lining while wet with an 
ordinary laundry brush. Hang in the air for a little 
while to allow most of the water to drip out of the 
clothes or material dyed. It is better to tie a piece of 
ropa in the center of a stick, then tie the other end to 
clothes line, then place the material on the stick or pole, 
like you would an overcoat, spreading it out as much as 
possible to avoid creasing the material. Never wring 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 21 

woolen materials. Before they are dry pass through 
dressing, dr}^ well and iron. 

Another method for dyeing Black Woolens in one im- 
mersion is : 

For one object, two gallons and a half of water. 

Sulphate of Zinc, 30 grams. 

Sulphate of Copper, 30 grams. 

Sulphate of Iron, 25 grams. 

lyOgwood and Yellow Wood in sufficient quantity. 
Allow it to boil for one hour and a half and rinse through 
several waters until the superfluous dye ceases to color 
the water. If the material is mixed with cotton it is 
necessary first to dye the material in the dye for wool, 
then in order to obtain a good Black for the cotton 
threads which form one warp the article must be dyed a 
second time in the mixture for dyeing cotton fabrics. If 
the material should be composed of wool, cotton and 
silk it is only necessary to consider the first tv/o, as the 
silk will take the dye very easily. 

The recipe for Black Cotton is given in another chap- 
ter. 



22 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



DYEING COTTON GOODS. 



It is absolutely necessary to soak the cotton articles in 
a mordant diluted in cold water. The articles should be 
soaked all night. It is not necessary to boil the clothes 
in the dyeing liquid, but they should be brought to 
boiling point. 

The principal mordants for the dyeing of cotton goods 
are Rust for Black materials, Cachoo for Maroon, Sumac 
and Gallic, or Tanic Acid, for Aniline Dyes. Put all cot- 
ton goods to soak in the mordant cold, after the clothes 
have been washed clean. 

When dyeing anything black, rinse the material after 
soaking in the Rust, before dyeing it. 



RED, CHERRY OR CERISE, REDDISH BLACK. 



Water — Sufficient for immersion. 

Mordant — Either Sumac, Gallic Acid or Tannic Acid. 
Take the articles out of the mordant in which they 
have been soaking over night. Do not rinse them, 
but put them into a solution of Tumeric and a little 
Acetic Acid. Bring to boiling point; withdraw 
and soak in a solution of Fuchine which will produce 
the desired shade of red according to the quantity of 
color used. 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 23 



YELLOW, BUTTER COLOR, PALE YELLOW, Etc. 



The colors are produced with the same mixture as the 
Red, etc., in preceding chapter, omitting the Fuchine or 
Red Dye. 



QREEN. 



Use the same mordant as in preceding recipes for cot- 
tons. 

For coloring add to sufficient water, a little I^ogwood 
and Yellow Wood, with a little piece of Blue Stone about 
the size of a filbert nut. 



PALE QREEN AND QREY. 

Make the mordant with sufficient water and Sumac. 
Green Aniline Dye produces very good eflfect, and Ani- 
line Grey is also very satisfactory. 



GARNET. 



Allow the article to be dyed to soak in the mordant 
for twelve hours. Withdraw the articles from the mor- 
dant and pass through a tub of clear cold water, then 



24 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 

into another in which has been dissolved a small quan- 
tity of Bichromate of Potash (a piece about as large as a 
filbert nut). Rinse through three waters and then soak 
for half an hour in a solution of Fuchine. 



PRUNE, VIOLET, ETC, 



Prepare exactly the same as for Garnet, but instead of 
Fuchine use Aniline Violet Dye. 

For Purple shades use Red Violet Aniline, and for the 
Violet shades use Blue Violet. 



MAROON, HAVANA, ETC- 



FIRST METHOD. 



For these colors use Cachoo. Allow the article to 
soak all night in the water in which the above is dis- 
solved. Then in the morning put into a tub of water in 
which a piece about the size of a filbert nut of Bichro- 
mate of Potash has been dissolved^ and soak for half an 
hour, then withdraw and pass through the Rust which is 
the mordant for Black or Dark Shades of Cotton. Rinse 
in five waters. Soak for five minutes in a solution of 
Yellow Wood or Logwood, according to the shade de- 
sired. Less coloring is required for Havana. The 
shades are very solid and do not easily fade. 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 25 



SECOND METHOD. 



Maroon, Wood Color, Havana Tobacco and all the 
shades of the colors are obtained with Aniline Dyes and 
the same mordant as for Red, etc. 

For light colors use Carmine of Safflower. For these 
light shades it is necessary to pass the material through 
the dressing, dry and iron. 




26 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



DYEING OF SILKS. 



Rose Pink, Cherry or Cerise, Currant Red, Scar- 
Red, Garnet, let, 
Yellow, Butter Color, Straw, 
Navy, Sky Blue, Prune, 
Violet, Mauve, Maroon, 
Pearl Grey, Mouse Color, Iron Grey, 
Bronze Green. 

Only a small quantity of color is required for the dye- 
ing of a dress. 



PROCESS FOR SILK DYEING. 

All articles of silk should be thoroughly cleansed be- 
fore dyeing. This is done with warm water and Castile 
soap. Use a soft brush to take out stains . If the arti- 
cles are very soiled dissolve a little washing soda in the 
water. If the silk is thin or at all inclined to pull apart, 
it is preferable to rub it between the hands instead of 
brushing. 

Spread it out upon a plain wooden table to clean the 
entire surface. Rinse every article well. Before putting 
the articles into the dye, it should be strained, else the 
small particles of dye will spot the material. Strain 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 27 

through cheese cioth. Move the articles continually. 
Be sure that the stick of wood employed is perfectly col- 
orless and clean, and that there is sufficient water to 
cover the articles. 



ROSE, CHERRY COLOR OR CHERI5E, CURRANT-RED, 
RED, GARNET, ETC. 



FIRST METHOD— FIRST IMMERSION. 



Water -^-Sufficient for immersion, softened with a little 
Acetic Acid. 



SECOND IMMERSION, 



Color— Add little by little, Carmine of Safflower 
or Sanfranum. The darker shades are produced by 
adding Carmine of Safflower in larger quantities. 



SECOND METHOD. 



Water — Sufficient for immersion. 
Mordant — i tablespoonful Sulphuric Acid. 

Immerse the article into a second solution, namely, 
water in which a pinch of Fuchine has been dissolved. 
Withdraw the silk, rinse and pass immediately through 



28 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 

the dressing, roll up in a cloth, and then iron while 
damp. 

For Currant Red, put the Fuchine into almost boiling 
water. 



GARNET, 



Water — Sufficient for immersion, almost boiling. 

Mordant — A little Acetic Acid and small quantity of 
Archil. 

Color — Dissolve in tub of warm water a small quan- 
tity of Fuchine, then rinse, pass through dressing, 
etc. 



PRUNE. 



Boil material for thirty minutes in water with Nichol- 
son Blue. Withdraw, rinse twice in warm waters, then 
once in cold. Then prepare a tub of tepid water, to 
which add about a teaspoonful Sulphuric Acid and a 
small quantity of Archil, previously dissolved in warm 
water and strained through cheesecloth. Boil the ar- 
ticle in this solution for one hour; rinse pass through 
dressing and iron. By this process oue can obtain 
every shade of Prune, according to the quantity of color 
employed. 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 29 



YELLOW, BUTTER COLOR, STRAW. 



These colors which resemble each other so closely are 
obtained from — 

1. Picric Acid. 

2. Arnotto or Roucoii. 

3. Tumeric. 

4. Fustic. 

5. Dyers' Weed. 

With either of the above all the shades of Yellow can 
be obtained. 



MAROON. 



FIRST METHOD. 



Water — Sufficient for immersion. 

Color — Archil, Tumeric. Harden the water with a little 
Acetic Acid Put the article into the water before 
it boils, then boil for thirty minutes. If it is not 
Brown enough add asmallquantity of Carmine of In- 
digo or Sulphate of Indigo, diluted and strained. 
Be careful to take out the article before adding ad- 
ditional coloring as it is apt to render one portion 
darker than another. When well mixed, replace ar- 
ticle of clothing and boil another half- hour. 



30 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



SECOND METHOD. 



Water— As in first method. 

Color — Archil, Tumeric, about a tablespoonful of Sul- 
phuric Acid. Soak the article for fifteen minutes in 
Rust lyiquid. (See preparation). Rinse four or five 
times in tepid water. Then boil in solution of Yel- 
low Wood or Fustic. A larger quantity of Yellow 
Wood renders the color very dark, almost Black, 
but by adding lyOgwood in small or large quantities 
one obtains the desired shade. 



NAVY BLUE. 



Water— Sufficient for immersion, in which put a little 
Castile Soap, previously dissolved in water. 

Color — Nicholson Blue, Archil (very little), previously 
dissolved and strained. When the dye is warm im- 
merse the material. Heat slowly to a boiling point, 
then boil thirty minutes. Rinse through two warm 
waters, then once in cold. The color now appears 
to be Grey, but put it into warm water with which 
is mixed a little Sulphuric Acid and the Blue will 
instantly appear. Moderate the shade of the Navy 
Blue by adding more or less Archil or Nicholson 
Blue, according to taste. 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 31 



VIOLET AND HAUVE, 



For this color use Aniline Violet. It requires a large 
quantity of dye to produce a good effect, but it must be 
added in small quantities until the right shade is ob- 
tained, and add a little Acetic Acid. 

For Mauve it is preferable to use Reddish Violet Ani- 
line Dye, being careful to add it to the water little by 
little, then strain the whole through a cheese-cloth be- 
fore putting the material in it. 



SKY BLUE, 



Water— Sufficient. 

Color — A small quantity of Carmine of Indigo. Pass 
through the dressing or luster without rinsing. Be 
careful to strain before putting the article or articles 
into solution to prevent spotting. 



PEARL GREY, MOUSE COLOR, IRON GREY. 



Water — Sufficient, to which add a little Acetic Acid. 

Color — Cochineal Ammonical, Carmine of Indigo, Acid 
Picric or Yellow Wood (small quantity). Grey 
Aniline Dye also produces a good effect. 



32 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



BRONZE GREEN. 



Water — Sufficient, prepared with a little Acetic or Tar- 
taric Acid. 

Color — Tumeric and Archil. Boil the article for half an 
hour in water in which has been dissolved some 
Nicholson Blue, before boiling in the above solution 
for thirty minutes. By this same process one can 
dye Maroon by putting less blue. Rinse, pass 
through dressing, etc. 



BLACK SILK. 



For black silk, employ rust as the mordant and use 
the first recipe given for the dyeing of Black Woolens, 
as color. 




ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 33 



DRY CLEANING. 



Dry cleaning is so called because it is done with Gaso- 
line, which, being a mineral oil, cannot be mixed to 
advantage with water, nor employed upon any article 
whatsoever while said article is wet. If used upon wet 
or damp material it would leave a stain. 

Dry cleaning should be employed for the cleansing of 
all materials or tissues which would naturally be spoiled 
or deteriorized by washing in water. 

This method is especially useful for cleaning woolen 
goods, light silks, velvets, laces, cravats, gloves, ladies' 
and gentlemen's hats, leather, kid or satin shoes, table 
covers, damask curtains, por tiers, velvet and silk flowers, 
furs, and all articles (except cotton materials), without 
changing the color or in any way spoiling the finish of 
the tissue . Brush clean the article with gasoline, and 
then look over the dress or whatever object it may be, 
and take out the stain according to the particular recipe 
given further on. 

Gasoline removes only greasy and dusty spots; the 
stains from other substances must -be removed afterward, 
as explained in particular recipe. 



34 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



MANNER OF CLEANING WITH GASOLINE, 



In cleaning a man's suit the first thing to do is to turn 
out every pocket, being very particular to see that no 
matches are in the corners, not even the smallest parti- 
cle of sulphur, as this would cause the gasoline to ex- 
plode as soon as it would be dissolved, or upon the least 
friction, and this would be extremely dangerous for the 
person cleaning the apparel, as it would probably mean 
death. 

Above all things, never clean the clothes cleansed by 
this method in any room where there is any artificial 
light, such as a candle, lamp or gas, or any fire, as the 
fumes of the gasoline being the essence of a volitile oil, 
will absorb the heat and ignite, causing an explosion of 
the whole. There is no danger in a room without arti- 
ficial light or fire. 

Never place any article cleaned with gasoline, near the 
fire to dry. 

The best way to begin is to give every article a good 
brushing, for this removes the dirt. 

For a man's suit it is necessary to put a sufficient 
quantity of gasoline in a zinc or tin utensil, (Wood ab- 
sorbs too much gasoline.) 

Soak the clothes in. the gasoline a few seconds, then 
spread upon a plain, unpainted wooden table or upon an 
ironing board covered with zinc. Brush the most soiled 
parts, such as the collar, cuffs and front first, then the 
rest of the article. Then soak again a short while in 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 35 

clean gasoline. Spread a second time upon the table or 
board, and dry by rubbing with a clean, dry cloth. Then 
shake the garment well, hang up to dry. When it 
is very dry look over the garment and see if 
there are soiled spots from food, sweets, paints or axle- 
grease. If they are numerous put a pin in the place of 
each spot, as this prevents loss of time in looking for 
them again. 

If the dress is trimmed with Velvet, Plush, Lace, Silk 
or Ribbons, it is not necessary to unsew any of the 
trimmings, as all will be equally and advantageously 
cleaned in the gasoline. If only one width of a dress or 
coat requires cleaning, take a small brush, brush from seam 
to seam with gasoline, being careful that you do not 
allow the gasoline to moisten the other breadths and 
show the line between the cleaned breadth and the 
others. 

To clean Light Silks and Woolens, use gasoline to 
wash the materials in. When dry, look for all the stains 
and spots, stick a pin in each and dip the forefinger in 
alcohol and place the tip of the finger on the spot and 
rub with a very soft cloth, wiping it very lightly in order 
not to make the color run. 

If the spots are not easily removed by means of alco* 
hoi, use a little cold water also. 



36 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



CRAVATS, 



Wash the Cravats in gasoline, rubbing gently with 
the hand or brushing with a soft brush. Then rub with 
a soft cloth till dry, and to remove any stains which 
may discolor, use a little alcohol and water over the 
whole surface, gently rubbing the stained parts. If 
there is much Blue in the Silk or mixture put a few 
drops of Acetic Acid or vinegar in the water. If the 
Cravats are too faded and require dyeing see recipes for 
Silk dyeing. 

GLOVES. 



Take the soiled Gloves, and if dirty at the finger tips 
rub with a little butter or even permit the tips of the 
fingers to soak all night in a little melted butter. 

Commence with the White or Light Gloves, so that 
the gasoline may serve for the dark ones afterward, al- 
though not clean enough for the White. Put the Gloves 
on a clean, uncolored wooden table and brush them 
with gasoline, using a soft brush. Then rinse in clean 
gasoline, spread out on a clean cloth and wipe them with 
another until they are nearly dry, then pull and stretch 
them gently in every direction to prevent them becom- 
ing stiff*, then blow into them and hang them up to dry. 
When the Gloves are dry take a warm iron, one that can 
be supported on the palm of the hand without burning, 
and gently iron the gloves to give them a finished look . 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 37 



SHOES OF LEATHER, KID OR SATIN 



Wash the Shoes two or three tiraes in gasoline, brush- 
ing with as goft a brush as for Gloves. No matter 
how dirty the Shoes are they will become as clean as new 
by this method. 



Gentlemen's and Ladies' Hats and Children's Silk 
Bonnets are cleaned the same as gloves or shoes, and 
look as good as new. 




38 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



WET CLEANING 



BLACK GOODS. 



For this method put sufl&cient cold water in a tub, add 
a handful of salt. Soak the article in this for a short 
time, then remove and place on a plain wooden table. 
Dissolve some soap and washing soda in some warm 
water and dip the brush in this, and brush the material 
until you believe it perfectly clean. Dip the article into 
clean water and brush again in order to remove all the 
soap, then rinse for the last time in a tub of cold water 
with a handful of salt in it. Hang up to dry and do not 
iron until thoroughly dry. If there is any Cotton mixed 
in the material it is necessary to dip the material into a 
tub of water in which lyOgwood has been boiled or in 
which some Extract of I^ogwood has been mixed. Then 
ruise in the waters in which a little Copperas has been 
dissolved. 



BLUE GOODS, 



Use sufficient tepid water in which has been dissolved 
a handful of salt and a little Acetic Acid. Spread the 
article upon a table. Brush with very soapy water, but 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 39 

no soda. Rinse in warm water with a little Sulphuric 
Acid dissolved in it. This makes the Blue become more 
intense, or rather like new. 

Some Blues are brightened by adding soda to the 
water, but it is prudent and better to try a piece of the 
stuflF first. For all the colors follow the same instruc- 
tions, using Acetic Acid or a little vinegar to prevent 
the color from fading. Remember to put a handful of 
salt in the last rinsing water. 



SILKS. 
Manner of Washing all Kinds of Colored Silks, 



Melt a quantity of Castile Soap in tepid water, acidu- 
lated with a little Acetic Acid or White Wine Vinegar. 
Do not use Red Vinegar, as it is liable to injure the colors. 
Wash the dress or whatever the article may be through 
the hands. Do not rub soap on the surface of the ma- 
terial. Rinse well and pass through the dressing, to 
which a little White Wine Vinegar has been added. 
Iron while wet, on the wrong side. 

For such articles as Undershirts, Drawers, Sweaters, 
White Flannel Tennis Suits, Blankets, etc. (after they 
have been washed in the usual way) it is necessary to 
soak the material for twelve hours in a tub of cold water 
mixed with a litUe Acidum Sulpurosum. Cover the tub 
so that it is air-tight. Rinse in two cold waters, pass 
through blue water and hang up to dry. 



40 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



FEATHERS, 



RECIPE FOR CLEANING FEATHERS, 



Melt some soap in some warm water ; when melted put 
into a basin of warm water and wash the feathers be- 
tween the hands the same as a piece of lace. Wash 
them again in two more warm waters, and finally rinse 
well in clear, warm water. Then pass the feathers 
through a little clear starch, roll in a cloth and remove 
most of the dampness, and slap with the hands; dry near 
the fire, and slap with the hands again. When the 
starch is dry spread the feathers out on a table and brush 
them to remove any starch powder which may be visible. 
Before curling them pass the stems quickly before the 
steam of a kettle once, and curl with the back of a pen- 
knife. 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 41 



DYEINQ OF FEATHERS. 



YELLOW, GOLD, STRAW, CREAM, CORN, ORANGE, 
OLD GOLD, ETC. 

These colors are obtained from (i) Yellow Wood, (2) 
Picric Acid or Tumeric. To obtain a Greenish hue 
use a little Blue, and to produce a Reddish effect use 
Eosine. 



GREY, PEARL GREY, MOUSE COLOR, IRON GREY. 



These shades are obtained from Violet or Carmine of 
Indigo. For Dark Grey add a little Aniline Black. 
The above shades can also be produced with Cochineal, 
Tumeric or Yellow Wood in very small quantities. To 
render the articles a more vivid Grey add a little Ex- 
tract of Chestnuts. 



GARNET, DARK RED AND LIGHTER SHADES OF THE 

SAflE COLOR. 



These colors are obtained from Archil or Orceine. If 
desired, add a little Fuchine (ordinary) or Fuchine 
(acid; according to shade desired. 



42 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 

BRIGHT RED, REDDISH BLACK, SCARLET, CHERRY 

RED, ETC. 



These colors are obtained from Eosiue or Red Acid or 
Saffranine. Or it is produced with Carmine of Safflower 
according to shade desired. The water should be 
acidulated with a little Acetic Acid, 



BLUE. 
Navy, Light, Gendarme, Etc. 



Use for these shades Carmine of Indigo or Lyons 
Blue and Nicholson Blue and Lille Blue. Add Picric 
Acid in order to produce a Greenish Tint or Reddish 
Violet to redden the tint. 



SEAL, riAROON, TOBACCO OR HAVANA, WOOD, 
COLOR, ETC. 



Use separately or mixed the following colors to pro- 
duce the shades, according to taste: Archil, Tumeric, 
Carmine of Indigo, and good results are obtained with 
Maroon Aniline. For these shades, employ the following 
extracts: Fustic, Yellow Wood or Quercitron. 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 43 



GREEN, OLIVE, flOSS, BRONZE, EMERALD, ETC. 



These are obtained from Aniline Green, Gaslight 
Green, Methyle Green, to which one adds Tumeric or 
Picric Acid in order to produce a yellowish tint, or 
Lyons Blue to render blueish. These shades are made 
also with Carmine of Indigo, Tumeric or Picric Acid, 
Render the water acid with Acetic or Sulphuric Acid. 

VIOLET, MAUVE, LILAC, ETC. 

For these shades use Blue Violet or Red Violet in 
large quantities, as these colors fade easier than others. 
Add to the water Fuchine or Eosine. 



BLACK. 



After having cleaned the feathers according to recipe 
for cleaning feathers, given in this book, allow them to 
remain a few minutes in water acidulated with Oxalic 
Acid and then rinse them well in cold water. 



FIRST OPERATION. 



Put the feathers into Rust (see recipe in Directions for 
Dyeing, in beginning of this boob) for 10 hours, then 
rinse in tepid water until it becomes clear. 



44 COMPLETE INST^RUCTIONS ON THE 



SECOND OPERATION, 



Bring a quantity of Logwood and sufficient water for 
required immersion to boiling point; remove to the side 
of the stove, put the feathers into the fluid and keep 
warm for 8 or 10 hours. Then withdraw and rinse as in 
first operation. Should it be too reddish black, put a few 
drops of Sulphuric Acid in warm water and rinse again. 



THIRD OPERATION. 



Dilute a little Chromate in some water, dip the feathers 
in this until they become a fine black color, then rinse 
in tepid water several times and dry. 

For this operation, it is better to use a bowl or sauce- 
pan made of copper or tin. 




ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 45 



STAINS. 



SUGAR STAINS ON BLACK GOODS. 



To remove sugar stains from black materials, take a 
little cold water, in which a small piece of soda has been 
dissolved, and wet and rub the surface with a soft piece 
of sponge and dry. 



PAINT STAINS. 



If the spots are from paint, put a little butt'er upon them 
and allow it to remain quite soft; rub the material 
backward and forward in the fingers, and then rub well 
with a rag saturated with turpenliiie until the stain dis- 
appears. Then rub with a little gasoline to remove all 
signs of grease or turpentine. 



AXLE-GREASE. 



To remove axle-grease use turpentine or alcohol. 
When the garment is perfectly clean, iron it carefully, 



46 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 

according to directions in chapter on ironing. If the 
garments or materials to be cleaned are not dirty 
enough to be entirely washed in gasoline, it is sufficient 
to moisten the soiled parts with gasoline and rub well, 
but under all circumstances, the clothes must be well 
brushed first and the directions for stains followed as 
before directed. 

These have reference to men's suits and dark mate- 
rials only. 

For light garments and light shades of color it is bet- 
ter to use only water and alcohol to remove sugar stains. 
For ladies' black or dark dresses, follow the same direc- 
tions. 



SUGAR OR OTHER SWEET STAINS. 



COLORED GOODS. 



First rub the spot with gasoline to remove the grease, 
then rub with alcohol between the fingers or with a small 
brush. 



GREASE AND DUST STAINS. 

Simply rub the Grease or Dust Stains with gasoline, 
using a brush or a rag for the operation. 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 47 



FRUIT OR VEGETABLE STAINS. 



If the stains are not too old' it is generally sufficient 
to soak them a little in clear cold water. If this does 
not remove the stain, use a little Sulphurous Acid in 
some water. 



TO RESTORE COLORS WHICH ACID STAINS HAVE 
CHANGED. 



Some colors are changed by the contact of some 
alkali matter, and most people believe the color to be 
burned out of the goods. However, this is not so, and 
by the application of another acid the color can be re- 
stored. For instance, Light Blue and French Blue are 
rendered a Greyish shade by Soda, Potash or other Al- 
kaline stains, and these colors are restored by dipping 
the part in water to which has been added a little Acetic, 
or Tartaric, or Sulphuric Acid. After the stain has 
disappeared and the color has returned, wash the surface 
with a little water. For Violet, Garnet, Black and Grey 
which have been stained by Fruit Acids, wash with a lit- 
tle Ammonia and water, and then with cold water, 



48 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



WATER STAINS, 



Water Stains often have the appearance of black spots 
and spoil the brilliancy and 1 aster of the finish of the 
stuff. To reproduce the gloss, rub well with some ar- 
ticle, such as a glass bottle, which has a smooth surface, 
until the gloss appears. If the spots are too numerous, 
it is better to pass a damp rag over the entire surface to 
remove the gloss and then iron. 



BLOOD STAINS, 



To remove Blood Stains from Woolen or Silk ma- 
terials, first fold a cloth in four and lay it under the 
stained part of the clothing. Put a few drops of Am- 
monia into half a glass of water. Wet the spots or 
stains from time to time with a sponge, allowing the 
water to soak through into the cloth beneath, without 
rubbing. The blood will gradually disappear, and then 
the operation should be continued a few times with clear 
water. The surface can be lightly rubbed with a soft, 
clean linen cloth. When thoroughly dry, press. If 
the stain is an old one, it will take some little time for it 
to disappear. 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 49 



SOUP AND SAUCE STAINS. 



FOR BLACK WOOLENS. 



If the dress or any other article of apparel is stained 
with Soup, Gravy, Sauce, Oil, Blood or any weak kind 
of Acid, such as Vinegar, rub the spot first with gaso- 
line, and when the grease has disappeared further clean 
the stain with ammonia and water. Be careful not to 
use the water first, as the gasoline would then make a 
stain which would prove difficult to remove. The gas- 
oline must always be put on the surface of the ma- 
terial before the water is used. 



CARPETS. 



To remove stains from CarpetB, brueh the soiled parts 
well with gasoline and rub hard with a cloth to remove 
any grease; then if any stain of another nature remains, 
use alcohol and a little Acetic Acid mixed. First rub 
with a brush and then with a clean cloth until nearly dry. 
A little water mixed with the alcohol and Acetic Acid 
will not injure the carpet. 



50 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 

To remove Paint or Varnish Stains, rub well with tur- 
pentine and afterwards with gasoline. If the stain is an 
old one, and if the Paint or Varnish has become stiff 
from exposure to the sun or fire heat, rub the spot with 
butter first to soften it, then with turpentine and lastly 
with gasoline. Repeat this several times until all signs 
of the stains have disappeared. 

If the tissue is more or less covered with Paint it is 
better to soak the article all night, or for two or three 
days even, in very soapy water and a pint of gasoline. 
This will remove the paint very easily without damag- 
ing the material. 




ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 51 



IRONING. 



Every person who irons at home whether dyed or 
washed materials of Wool, Cotton or Silk should pos- 
sess an ironing table or board, a number of flat-irons, 
about three puflf-irons of different sizes, a sleeve-presser, 
a pad, and a heavy, square, solid piece of wood in which 
holes have been bored large enough to place the iron rod 
handles of the puff-irons in. 

The puff-iron has somewhat the form of an egg, with 
along iron stem handle from one side. This iron is 
used by all French ironers, for without it it is impossible 
to iron to perfection all the puffs, ruffles and fancy ap- 
pendages of the female toilet. The iron should be 
placed in the fire, and before using should be wiped and 
tested with a soft, clean cotton cloth or rag. Wherever 
it is difficult to produce a good effect with the flat-iron 
the puff-iron should be used. For instance, for sleeves 
which are very full and fancy at, or near the shoulder, and 
for puffing, however small, on the waist it is only neces- 
sary to undo a few stitches in the lining and then the puff- 
iron can be used without any difficulty. The puff-irons 
can be had at moderate prices from the size of a linnet^s 
egg to that of an ostrich. The most useful are the very 
small sizes and the one the size of a turkey^s egg. The 



52 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



end of the handle of the puflf-iron should be placed in 
the y/ooden block, and the goods are worked backwards 
and forwards upon its surface. 

To renovate Velvet the puff-iron will be found very ac- 
commodating, as Velvet must never be pressed, but 
after dampening the back, it can be passed over the puff, 
iron on the wrong side and both the steam and heat will 
remove all creases and improve the pile of the Velvet. 

The pad should measure about ten inches in length, 
six inches at the smallest and straight end and about 
eight at the other, which should be oval in shape. 
About two or three inches in thickness is well. Make a 
bag of these dimensions, using bed-ticking or strong 
shirting for inner cover. Fill the bag for cushion with 
old cloth folded as smoothly as possible. It is very 
useful for pressing or ironing Gentlemen's coat-sleeves 
and trousers. 

The sleeve-presser is composed of two boards about 
eighteen inches long, four inches wide at the narrow end 
and six at the widest — in form very similar to that of an 
ordinary ironing board. A solid piece of wood is nailed 
between these two boards in the center, so that the lower 
one rests upon the table and the upper one, being 
raised about four or five inches higher, allows the sleeves 
to be pressed on it and ironed with perfect ease. 



ART OF FRENCH DYEING AND CLEANING. 53 



DIRECTIONS FOR A SKIRT. 



After having passed the dyed skirt through the dress- 
ing and having allowed it to dry, turn it wrong side out 
and place it on the ironing table. If it is lined, the 
ironing must be done on the lining. Take a small bowl 
of cold water and a sponge, dampen the lining a little 
and as evenly as possible, by passing the sponge over it. 
Be careful not to allow the dress goods to get wrinkled 
or creased. If the material should require any ironing 
on the right side, be sure to cover the material with a 
chan, damp cloth and iron very quickly with a very hot 
iron. 



FOR A WAIST. 



Place the pad or cushion on the table, spread the sides 
of waists upon the cushion aad iron, then the back like- 
wise, and then use the PufF-iron for all places wh^re the 
flat-iron cannot enter (see "Puff-iron"). For unlined 
sleeves, use sleeve-presser. 



MEN'S CLOTHES. 



If men's clothes are properly cleaned and ironed, they 
should look like new, unless they are worn and threadbare. 



64 COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE 



TO IRON AN OVERCOAT. 



It should firafc be ironed oa the inside, attacking the 
pockets first, then the body and finally the sleeves. Pass 
a damp sponge over cloth before ironing; turn on the 
right side, place the cushion beneath the coat and a 
slightly damp cloth over the coat and press with a hot 
iron. Also use cushion or pad in the sleeves. 

Men's Trousers or Pants are ironed in somewhat the 
same way, beginning on the wrong side, with the pockets 
and lining and lastly the legs. Use pad entirely for 
these articles. 



A MAN'S VEST. 



After having pressed this garment on the wrong side, 
according to directions for overcoats, turn on the right 
side, place upon pad, cover with a slightly dampened 
cloth and press with a hot iron. 



INDEX. 



PAGE 

Introduction 2 

Instructions for Dyeing ..., 3 

Rust, for Mordant — Recipe 4 

Dressing for Light Colors = 5 

Cleaning Hands from Dye Stains 5 

Index of Colors 6 

Dyeing, Colors and Methods. 

Woolen Goods- 
Black , 17-19 

Blue, French 14 

Blue, Navy 13 

Blue, Sky 14 

Garnet 15 

Green (see Moss Green) 9 

Grey 11 

Havana, Wood Color, Etc 15 

Maroon, Bronze and Seal Brown 16 

Moss Green 16 

Orange 8 

Plum 7 

Purple, Light , 12 

Reddish Black 10 

Violet 12 

Violet (with Aniline) 12 

Yellow , 10 

Mixed Goods, Dyeing 19 

Cotton Goods, Dyeing 22 

Garnet 23 

Green, Different Shades 23 

Grey 23 

Maroon, Havana, Etc... 24 

Prune, Violet, Etc 24 

Red, Cherry, Reddish Black, Etc 23 

Yellow, Butter Color, Pale YeUow, Etc 23 



INDEX— Continued. 



PAGE 

Silks— Dyeing, the Process, Colors, Etc. 26 

Black 32 

Blue, Navy 30 

Blue, Sky 31 

Bronze Green 32 

Garnet 28 

Maroon. 29 

Pearl Grey, Iron Grey, Etc 31 

Prune 28 

Rose, Cherry, Currant Red, Etc 27 

Violet and Mauve 31 

Yellow, Butter Color, Straw, Etc 29 

Dry Cleaning — with Gasoline 33-34 

Cleaning Cravats 36 

Cleaning Gloves 36 

Cleaning Shoes, Leather, Kid or Silk 37 

Wet Cleaning— Materials and Methods 38 

Black Goods 38 

Blue Goods 38 

Silks— Methods for Washing 39 

Feathers — How to Clean them 40 

Feathers — How to Dye them 41 

Black 43 

Blue, Navy, Light, Etc 42 

Brown, Seal, Maroon, Havana, Etc 42 

Garnet, Dark Red and other Shades 41-42 

Green, Olive, Moss, Bronze, Etc 43 

Pearl Grey, Iron Grey, Etc 41 

Violet, Mauve, Lilac, Etc 43 

Yellow, Gold, Straw, Corn, Orange 41 

Stains— To Remove Them.. 45 

Axle Grease, to remove 45 

Blood Stains 48 

Carpets, Stains on 49 

Fruit and Vegetable Stains 47 

Grease and Dust Stains 46 

Soup and Sauce Stains 49 

Sugar Stains on Black Goods 45 

Sweet Stains other than above 46 

Water Stains 48 

Ironing — Implements Required 51 

How to Iron various garments 53-54 









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